Did someone say ’The best arrondissement in Paris?’ The beating heart of Paris’ food scene has recently landed in a new district. The 11e has taken the crown from the Marais, and is the spot for food, drinks and some of the best coffee in town. This arrondissement used to be known for its nightlife, and if you’re looking for a party you will definitely find one here, but lately the food scene has been taking over the streets north of Bastille. Not just for foodies though, you’ll find some great alternative arts and culture here, as well as a few places for some peace and quiet. The 11e really has it all.
What to See
Atelier des Lumières
If the weather is proving petulant, head toward l’Atelier des Lumières. This is a popular attraction in Paris and for good reason, it’s basically an hour-long immersive experience featuring an ever-changing selection of artists. Get out of the rain and enjoy diving into the works of famous French painters, or Ancient Egypt, and even the occasional coiffed cartoon detective…
Bastille Market
Did you know that each arrondissement has its own outdoor market twice a week? That makes 40 in Paris every week! Bastille market is one of the best in town and you’ll find it snaking up the boulevard every Thursday and Sunday. Blend in with the locals at the fromagerie or grab a falafel wrap for a quick and easy lunch.
Where to Eat and Drink
Coffee
Fauna
Fauna is still fairly new to the Paris coffee scene, and it’s a must-visit on your trip to Paris, if you’re a coffee lover. They do everything well, but their iced coffee and cardamom buns are two of our favorite indulgences. They’ve also been known to host a pop-up brunch from time to time, so keep an eye out when you’re in town.
Kott
This cute little specialty coffee shop is located in a pedestrian zone of the 11e. She’s Korean and he’s French; they’re in love with each other and with speciality coffee’ is how they say it, and this place is a perfect rest stop for a cold brew or an einspänner if you’re feeling sweet. Be advised, no wifi and no laptops so sit bring a friend or a good book.
Food
Furia
While there isn’t anywhere in Paris that delivers on tacos that will rival your friend’s favorite spot in Southern California, we have a few spots that have really ramped it up of late and Furia is at the top of that game. Their baja taco never disappoints, and recently they’ve added a few more that hit the spot. Vegetarians are well taken care of with shiitake mushrooms and spicy aioli in their ‘al pastor.’ What you’re really coming for here is the party (because the service is often standoffish at best). Opened in partnership with the biggest importer of German natural wine, Furia is where we go to have a knockout night that starts with a tasty dinner.
Kubri
Our favorite Lebanese restaurant in Paris (and there are a few to choose from). Kubri doesn’t serve shawarma, that remains a separate category, but for a sit down meal, it is a hard contender in all categories. Everything is good. The chicken is definitely a must, along with every side we’ve tried here (which is just about all of them) like the fried halloumi. It’s bound to be one of the most flavor-packed meals of your time in Paris. We highly recommend making reservations because it’s officially on the map these days.
Speaking of maps, looking for one with the best places to eat and drink in Paris? Then look no further: the map in the Paris in My Pocket Guide is all you need.
OOBATZ
Let’s try our luck at Oobatz, our good friend Dan’s restaurant and possibly the best pizza in the world. It isn’t New York, it isn’t Neapolitan, it’s related yet something else. His sourdough is so light you’ll hardly notice it, there’s love and care in the sauce, and such a great balance of quality ingredients… and don’t forget the desserts! They’ve got a fantastic wine selection, their own beer as well, and the pizza is phenomenal. If you want to reserve, they open bookings 15 days in advance, so set your alarm!
Drink
Dirty Lemon
This woman-owned, Queer-friendly spot is a must-visit for cocktail lovers. Formerly a chef at some of the most prestigious addresses in town, chef Ruba brings a Mediterranean spin to the drinks and small plates. Try the Lebanese girlfriend with almond infused Shochu alongside bitter Arak and apricot liqueur. And don’t skip out on the dirty fries, the most famous dish on the menu.
Liquiderie
A bar that almost no tourist will ever find due to its location and the sheer lack of advertising. There isn’t even a sign hanging outside (and it’s currently covered in scaffolding to obscure it even more). It is perfect for mixed groups because they have both local beer and natural wine ON TAP, in equal measure. Want your own bottle of orange wine or a sparkly ‘pet nat?’ They’ve got a whole refrigerated wall full. The food here is very much on the snack side though, so be sure to eat something before you rock up.
Best Places to Hang Out
Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud
In competition for the best foodie street in town, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud is bursting with what makes the 11e so unique. Grab a Laffa (flatbread sandwich) or a falafel bowl at Nour, a Levantine street food spot that’s a must for lunchtime bites. Or test the only pepperoni pizza in Paris at Rori (between Rori and OOBATZ, Jay claims there’s no other pizza worth eating in Paris). The Hood is some of the best Singaporean food you’ll find in Paris (and they do incredible donuts across the street at Nonette alongside the best Bàhn Mí in the 11e). Finish your night at fifty-fifty for a cocktail because seriously, you could spend an entire day and never leave this street (you might even end up clubbing at L'Alimentation Générale down the street if the slew of dive bars here doesn’t do it for you).
Square Maurice-Gardette
There’s a lot to see in the 11e and sometimes you need to take the weight off and relax. Head to the park at square Maurice-Gardette and take a nap on the grass or recline on a classic Parisian park bench. Better yet, The Beans on Fire has a terrace next door so drop in for a coffee, a cookie (or three), and relax back in the sunshine.
If you’re a foodie in Paris it’d be a crime to skip the 11e. We could write about twenty articles about just this neighborhood and maybe scratch the surface. For a more exhaustive look you’ll need to peek inside our Guide. Trust us, you don’t want to miss out. There is never a reason to have a bad meal in Paris. While the 11e might be the arrondissement on the radar right now, the 12e is a little further off the beaten path. Check back tomorrow to find out what to see and do (and eat) in Paris’ second hidden gem, the 12e.