Paris’ 12e arrondissement is an Eastern residential haven for locals; it’s somewhere that feels less city-like, less like a bustling capital. The 12e has more quiet streets, access to the massive Bois de Vincennes, and stays well connected to the rest of Paris by metro.
There isn’t much to see by way of museums or monuments here, so let’s jump straight into food and drink. While we wouldn’t really recommend coming to the 12e for anything specific, you might find yourself staying and looking for something to eat close to your hotel or Airbnb. The 12e might not be foodie, per se, but there are still a few options we’d recommend - and you’re close to the 11e, which will make up all the difference!
Where to Eat and Drink
Coffee
Magic Carpet
Margic Carpet Café serves up delicious coffee and matcha with a side of super fresh food. Whether you’re in the mood for a little sandwich, a granola bowl, a vinaigrette-covered salad, or a croissant, you’ll find it here. With a light and airy interior, this is the best way to start your day on the right foot.
The Kursaal
It’s been a while since we’ve mentioned The Kursaal, and this is only really because it’s a bit far out for most. We tend to recommend people come a bit more central for food, but if you happen to be in the neighborhood, we highly rate The Kursaal. They have a banging brunch and truly spectacular cookies.
Food
Ground Control
Would we go out of the way to go to Ground Control? Maybe not. But is it a fantastic option for groups of people travelling together, especially with picky eaters or families with kids or teens? Yes! Ground Control by day is a food court and event space (and by night it can turn into a real party). Whether you want to get a pizza, try some fried macaroni bites, or grab some middle-eastern fare, you’ll find a solid variety of options alongside a board game library and plenty of space for kids to roam free. Also beer (this is where the Paris beer festival happens every year after all).
Le Train Bleu
You’ve likely heard of the Train Bleu, either from Tiktok or from Mr. Bean’s Holiday (both valid sources). Does it book out weeks ahead? Yes. Is it worth it? Also yes. Surprisingly located in the Gare de Lyon, Le Train Bleu’s majestic, vaulted dining room ceilings will have you spilling your drink, and whatever chef they have on rotation will surely have you ordering more.
This is particularly convenient if you happen to be leaving for the south of France and want one last great meal before boarding your train.
Drink
Le Baron Rouge
Don’t judge a bar by its online presence - if you do, you’ll never end up at Le Baron Rouge, and you’ll be missing out. Truly a local joint, Le Baron Rouge is a local, divey wine-bar. They’ll refill your bottles from their bulk wine barrels and on weekends, from mid-September to the end of April, you can swing by for oysters and a glass for a quintessential French experience.
Le Calbar
If you’re more of a cocktail person, check out Le Calbar. You’ll be served some stellar cocktails by a staff wearing colorful bowties and what amounts to pretty much Hawaiian boxer shorts. This place is a perfect mix of fun and festive without sacrificing even a dash of quality.
Best Places to Hang Out
Coulée Verte walk
The Coulée Verte is a greenway that runs through the 12e arrondissement of Paris. Once a rail line heading east from Paris, this nearly 6km pathway runs from Bastille to Vincennes and is an official park of Paris. Perfect for a morning jog or meditation, you can hop on the Coulée either at its end, near Bastille, or via several stairways and gates along the way. And don’t forget to stroll along its base on the side closest to Bastille, as it’s inhabited by all variety of craftspeople including cartographers, musical instrument repair shops, and even some glass blowers.
Lac Daumesnil in Parc de Vincennes
Bois de Vincennes has a lot to offer if you need an escape from the city: A massive Château, a huge forest, and a zoo. If you happen to be floating around the area on a beautiful day, swing by Lake Daumesnil for a picnic in a paddle boat. It’s a delightfully peaceful and unique way to spend an hour or two. To learn more, click here.
Want all of our favorite spots in the city, plus a full-day itinerary that balances culture, coffee, and calm? Grab our Guide+ for our three itineraries, plus access to exclusive audio walking tours with Le Walk, and literally hundreds of Paris recommendations. Oh, and did we mention its access for LIFE? Grab our Guide here!