What’s the Deal with Paris’ 12th Arrondissement?
The 12th Arrondissement of Paris is an Eastern residential haven for locals; it’s somewhere that feels less city-like, less like a bustling capital. The 12th has more quiet streets, access to the massive Bois de Vincennes, and stays well connected to the rest of Paris by metro, which pretty much runs in line with the Faubourg Saint-Antoine and out beyond Place de la Nation.
How to Get Around Paris’ 12th Arrondissement
As we mentioned above, the metro stays fairly well connected in the 12th arrondissement of Paris. That said, it’s a large neighborhood, and many streets eventually weave away from the metro. It’s also a beautiful place, so walking or biking, if you’re able, is going to be a great way to see the city.
There isn’t much to see by way of museums or monuments here, so let’s jump straight into food and drink. While we wouldn’t really recommend coming to the 12th for anything specific, you might find yourself staying and looking for something to eat close to your hotel or Airbnb. The 12th might not be foodie, per se, but there are still a few options we’d recommend - and you’re close to the 11th, which will make up all the difference!
Where to Eat and Drink
Coffee
Magic Carpet
Margic Carpet Café serves up delicious coffee and matcha with a side of super fresh food. Whether you’re in the mood for a little sandwich, a granola bowl, a vinaigrette-covered salad, or a croissant, you’ll find it here. With a light and airy interior, this is the best way to start your day on the right foot.
The Kursaal
It’s been a while since we’ve mentioned The Kursaal, and this is only really because it’s a bit far out for most. We tend to recommend people come a bit more central for food, but if you happen to be in the neighborhood, we highly rate The Kursaal. They have a banging brunch and truly spectacular cookies.
Okay, we love coffee. If you do too, you’ll want to check out some of our favorite roasters in Paris.
Food
Ground Control
Would we go out of the way to go to Ground Control? Maybe not. But is it a fantastic option for groups of people travelling together, especially with picky eaters or families with kids or teens? Yes! Ground Control by day is a food court and event space (and by night it can turn into a real party). Whether you want to get a pizza, try some fried macaroni bites, or grab some middle-eastern fare, you’ll find a solid variety of options alongside a board game library and plenty of space for kids to roam free. Also beer (this is where the Paris beer festival happens every year after all).
Le Train Bleu
You’ve likely heard of the Train Bleu, either from Tiktok or from Mr. Bean’s Holiday (both valid sources). Does it book out weeks ahead? Yes. Is it worth it? Also yes. Surprisingly located in the train station Gare de Lyon, Le Train Bleu’s majestic, vaulted dining room ceilings will have you spilling your drink, and whatever chef they have on rotation will surely have you ordering more.
This is particularly convenient if you happen to be leaving for the south of France and want one last great meal before boarding your train.
Drink
Le Baron Rouge
Don’t judge a bar by its online presence - if you do, you’ll never end up at Le Baron Rouge, and you’ll be missing out. Truly a local joint, Le Baron Rouge is a local, divey wine-bar. They’ll refill your bottles from their bulk wine barrels and on weekends, from mid-September to the end of April, you can swing by for oysters and a glass for a quintessential French experience.
Looking for other great wine bars, or great places to hang out for a romantic date? Check out some of our favorites.
Le Calbar
If you’re more of a cocktail person, check out Le Calbar. You’ll be served some stellar cocktails by a staff wearing colorful bowties and what amounts to pretty much Hawaiian boxer shorts. This place is a perfect mix of fun and festive without sacrificing even a dash of quality.
12th Arrondissement Attractions
Often considered underappreciated and underrated, the 12th arrondissement offers a few off the beaten path attractions. You’ll see more about this below, but if you’re looking to spend some time outside, the Bois de Vincennes and the Coulée Verte are great ways to do so. The Château de Vincennes sits at the edge of the woods as well, and is a great way to see a true defensive fortress… and then let the kids run around after, if you’re travelling as a family.
Also great for the kids are: the Zoo of Paris, the Tropical Aquarium at the Porte de Palais d’Orée, and the Musée des Arts Forains, which is pretty much a museum of carnaval wonder located in the Bercy Village. Bercy Village is not far from the Gare de Lyon. While cool any time of year, it’s particularly create during the festive season!
And of course, if you’re looking to take in a show, you’ll want to check out the Bastille Opera House, sitting just across from the Bastille Monument. On Thursdays and Sundays, you’ll also see the covered market of Bastille starting at the monument and stretching North.
Is the 12th Arrondissement Safe?
Yes. The 12th arrondissement sits as a mostly residential neighborhood, but not in the wealthiest arrondissements, which are on the other side of town. This means fewer break ins. There are also no major tourist attractions, so you’re less likely to have an issue with pickpockets.
Best Places to Hang Out
Coulée Verte walk
The Coulée Verte René Dumont is a greenway, or promenade planté, that runs through the 12th arrondissement of Paris. Once a rail line heading east from Paris (that now has been converted into art galleries and shops, called the Viaduc des Arts), this nearly 6km pathway runs from Bastille to Vincennes and is an official park of Paris. Perfect for a morning jog or meditation, you can hop on the Coulée either at its end, near Bastille, or via several stairways and gates along the way. And don’t forget to stroll along its base on the side closest to Bastille, as it’s inhabited by all variety of craftspeople including cartographers, musical instrument repair shops, and even some glass blowers.
Lac Daumesnil in Parc de Vincennes
Bois de Vincennes has a lot to offer if you need an escape from the city: A massive Château, a huge forest, and a zoo. If you happen to be floating around the area on a beautiful day, swing by Lake Daumesnil for a picnic in a paddle boat. It’s a delightfully peaceful and unique way to spend an hour or two. To learn more, click here.
Otherwise, if you’re looking to spend sometime outside but want a more central park, here is our list of hidden parks and gardens in Paris.
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