Ahh the 17e arrondissement of Paris. Quelle mystère! Okay, maybe it’s not mysterious per se, but it’s definitely a bit of a zone of not-too-much-going-on-so-we-don’t-really-hang-out-there. That said, the 17e still has plenty to offer for locals, and certain travelers, so we’re going to help you maximize your time here.
One thing the 17e is great for is calm streets and leisurely walks. Which is good, because you’ll need to walk further than usual to get to some good eats and drinks.
To find out where a great local spot to eat and drink is at any given point in the city, be sure to grab our Guide. Think literally hundreds of recommendations: craft beer, specialty coffee, local and natural wine, delicious eats. Oh, and if you want even more, the Guide+ offers three full-day itineraries. Granted… not of this neighborhood. But you’ll probably spend most of your time elsewhere, anyway (we suspect).
What to See
The Arc de Triomphe
Yes, we’re cheating with this one. The Arc de Triomphe is technically at the junctions of three arrondissements, but there’s really not much to see by way of monuments or tourist attractions in the 17e, so we’ll take what we can get!
The view from the Arc de Triomphe is one of the best in Paris, so be sure to book ahead and grab your tickets here. The arc is wheelchair accessible, so if you need accessibility help, be sure to reach out to them.
Where to Eat and Drink
Coffee
Vague
Vague is a gem in the semi-coffee desert of the 17e. One of the reasons it stands out is that they actually have vanilla lattes… but make it specialty. They also have a cold brew with milk foam and orange zest we’ve been dying to try. If you happen to be in the 17e, whether just passing through or staying in one of the many quaint and calm hotels in the neighborhood, we recommend passing by Vague for your morning pick-me-up.
Café Dose - Batignolles
Thankfully, there’s also a Dose! Dose has been around for a few years now, and they have three locations in Paris. They’re a solid choice for a good cup of coffee when you’re in a coffee desert. We recommend this particular one because it’s right next to the Batignolles Park. Grab a coffee or perhaps a purple latte (we haven’t tried this one yet…) and take it for a wander in the park.
Food
Pleincoeur
You may think, oh, sure Pleincoeur is simply an amazing bakery and patisserie… but they’re also a chocolatier. And oh man, are they good. This place was started by the pastry chef at Cheval Blanc and the attention to detail is stunning. Be sure to taste literally any of their chocolate (because not all chocolate shops are created equal) and definitely try their juicy and sweet fraisier (strawberry cake/tarte). You might even be back for seconds.
Rue des Dames
While Rue des Dames is not one specific location for food or drink, it’s a little bit of everything. This is where the nightlife is in the 17e and it’s no surprise that it will lead you very close to Pigalle, a fantastic area for a night on the town. Wander around this street around apéro hour and you’re bound to find a local place for a good meal.
Best Places to Hang Out
Square des Batignolles
Peaceful and fresh, the Square des Batignolles is one of those parks we wish were more central so we could recommend it more often. There are ping-pong tables, a dog park, a free book exchange box, and even a boulodrome. That’s our word of the day! A boulodrome is a specific area designed for playing boules, or pétanque. They’re all over Paris, and definitely part of the charm! Oh, and did we mention the adorable pond and the luscious leafy trees? This is an ideal place for a picnic if you’re staying in the area and want to stick close to home for one of your days in the city.
MLK Park
Situated pretty much right next to the Square des Batignolles, the Martin Luther King park is comparatively open and large. If you’re in the mood for a longer walk, this is the place for you. Wander around the little ponds (perhaps away from the skate park if you want a quieter atmosphere!) and enjoy the green grass that is calling for you to lie down and watch the clouds go by. You might even gain a little elevation deeper in where the stairs lead up to a mysterious platform… we told you this neighborhood had mystique.
Parks and coffee will give you a relaxing time in the 17e, but it’s not where you want to be for the livelier aspects that Paris has to offer. Perhaps eat and drink elsewhere… but when you need a break from the tourists and a break from the busy, you’ll find your refuge in this arrondissement.
Be sure to check out our Guide for where to go when you leave the 17e, and check back here tomorrow for our thoughts on the 18e… we have a lot of them!